SANKOFA - Cowries as fashionable ornaments in the 21st century. (FINAL YEAR PRODUCTION)

 By Jessica Pokua Dodea 

November 2, 2021

In the process of transforming the traditional lifestyle into modern civilization, education, business, technology, medicine, and entertainment have all been impacted significantly. Ancient craft and ornaments such as beads, metal, bones, and shells have been combined with modern art to give a unique twist to fashion style while paying homage to our historical roots and memories. Most people have now found ways of using these ornaments especially the cowries.

A cowry is a small,  polished, brightly oval structure shell with a long narrow opening. from a family of small to big sea snails from the marine mollusc. In the early 14th century, the cowrie shells were seen as both spiritual and physical object. In the spiritual realm, the four elements namely water, Air, Earth and Fire communicate through the cowry shell. It is a very   powerful instrument for divination and it represents the human race.  The back of the shell represent the belly of a pregnant woman and the open ventral summarises the vagina of a woman. 

 Cowries shells 

These shells were worn by Africans most especially pregnant women for protection whether in labor or not to sack bad spirit and eyes. 

Also, according to history, the word “cowry” is derived from the word “currency” which signifies how the water current carries the cowries to the banks of the ocean, which is why cowry was used as money  in parts of Africa, Asia, Europe,and Oceania. The Ashanti refers to it as  “s3d3 “ . The cowry shell comes in various types, shapes and size that determines the currency rate. 

 Cowries have a unique way of connecting the beauty ,art , roots , struggle and history of the native Africans. 


Currently, cowry shells have become a huge fashion statement in the African continent and the diaspora. As a beautification symbol, it adds to the aesthetic style of dressing . But some people still see it as negative energy due to some cultural practices and beliefs. People see cowries as negative because for instance in Northern Africa ,Morocco to be precised , these shells were used as skin bleaching agent in combination with lemon juice. Again,  Philippines and Samoas perceive these shells as venomous as some species contain poison that paralyze  and kill  humans. Nevertheless, the cowrie business has come to stay .

In this present day , Cowry shells are use in making bracelets, necklace  , ankle and hair adornment. Now ,Ornaments made of cowries are worn by youth to spice up their fashion sense and connect them to the African spirit. 


Also, it is even in vogue and a lot of people use it in their hair. Gone were the days where those who use were traditionalists and also had natural dreadlocks called “m-pes3, m-pes3. Utilizing our  African ornaments, arts and craft is not a sacred act, it has been with us and will always be so it’s  not a taboo to go for the forgotten  . Whenever you see cowries be it art or ornaments always  think Ghana and Africa.

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